Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1aauto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money.
Thank you, and enjoy the rest of the video. OK, this is part one of two. Window regulator on this '97 Ford Expedition, same as any '97-02 and '97-03 F-150.
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We're going to show you how to remove it. Tools you're going to need; a regular screwdriver, a Philips screwdriver, 11 mm socket and driver, a hammer, a punch and a drill with a -inch drill bit. Start out here, we're going to fast-forward through taking the door panel off. If you want to see this in regular motion, just check out our other videos. Search for Expedition or F-150 door panel, or you can probably pick up enough.
It's just a matter of removing a few panels and a few screws and then pulling up and off. Generally, it's the same for all doors, front and rear with the exception of obviously the extended cab trucks.
Took the panel off. You can see I have my window rolled down slightly. What that allows is remove two nuts. This one here and that one right in there. Now, on this truck, there's nothing wrong with the regulator or the motor, so I can move the window around. Really that'll probably be your greatest challenge.
If you have a stuck window regulator or motor, you'll have to reach in and get those nuts off wherever they may be. They may be it's stuck all the way down, you're going to have to reach down. There's quite a bit of room in the door and with these holes, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. What I'm going to do is I'm going to remove those two nuts. They're 11 mm. Once you have those nuts off, I'm reaching into the middle of my window, lifting up on the window a little bit, and I'm just pulling the window regulator track away from the window. Lift up on the window, and I'll secure that with some tape.
That holds the window up. Now, my regulator's separate from the window.
You can see I used a little bit of painter's tape just to secure the window up, so it doesn't fall down while I'm working. Just to get it out of the way, I'm going to pull this harness off the door. Now, what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to remove these two bolts here, which are 11 mm. OK, now these rivets are actually pretty easy. This is where you want to make sure you have your window taped up well. You want to take the punch, and you want to put it right in the center of the rivet. You want to knock the little pin right through.
I'm going to do that on all six rivets. Now, I'm going to take a nice big -inch drill bit.
I'm going to drill right into. Now, these are pretty soft metal rivets.
How To Remove Rear Door Panel Ford Expedition
You want to be careful not to drill too far and drilling through the door. Then, once you've gone a certain distance, can probably just take a screwdriver and clean off the rest of them. I'll do that for the other one.
Once you have all those rivets drilled out. Again, it's a matter of separating them from the door. Can always resort to your punch again. Now, your regulator is free. Here is your harness's connector right here. See, this connects that, feed it through, bring the regulator out through there. That ends this video for now.
If you want to see the installation, please check out our other videos for the F-150 Expedition window regulator install. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-8444-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
Jon PaulI spent years writing about cars and motorsports for some magazines you might've heard of (emphasis on 'might've') despite having only the most basic understanding of what a carburetor does. It was that experience writing about cars that drew Crutchfield's attention. I began as a freelance contributor, using their vehicle research to write articles explaining how to install audio gear in specific vehicles.Things went so well that they brought me in as a fulltime writer and eventually made me an editor. Now I continue to write those vehicle profiles, other web features, product descriptions, and Crutchfield catalog articles. Let's just say I know some pretty cool stuff that'll help you install your car or marine audio system.
Hopefully you'll have some fun along the way.Before I joined the Crutchfield team, I honestly thought that good audio was anything loud enough to annoy pets and/or the neighbors. I was completely and amazingly wrong. The house sounds awesome these days and the latest car is next. And yes, we'll probably write an article about that, so stay tuned!
More about Jon. Started at Crutchfield in 2012.
Completed our thorough in-house Advisor training, and continued learning about the ins and outs of our various products. Attends dozens of vendor training events each year. Authored dozens of Crutchfield articles and hundreds of product presentations about car, marine, and ATV audio. Automotive/Marine editor and primary creator and caretaker of the Crutchfield Research Garage. Recovering journalist – Jon spent a decade or so as a magazine writer and editor, and also as a freelance writer.
Former dockmasterMore from Jon Paul. In a nutshell: This article is an overview of your Expedition's audio system and its upgrade options. Use to find the gear that will fit your SUV.Overview of the Ford ExpeditionFord's full-size Expedition hasn't achieved the long-lasting cultural significance of the Chevrolet Suburban, but for people who need a massive SUV and wouldn't be caught dead in a Chevy, it's just about perfect. The third-generation, which debuted in 2007 and stuck around until just lately, simply took all the luxury and utility of the previous models and made it bigger and better.As you might expect from a vehicle that takes up a visible percentage of a city block, the Expedition offers tons of space for audio gear and plenty of space to work with. For those who need even more SUV, there's the extended-wheelbase Expedition EL, which we presume means either 'Extra Long,' 'Extended Length,' or 'Excursion-Like,' because it's all of those things. Receiver and speaker replacement is the same in both models, though, so if you want even bigger and better sound in your Expedition, you have lots of great options. Replacing the base radio will improve both performance and functionality (Crutchfield Research Photo)Factory stereo system2007-2014 modelsFull-size SUV owners expect a lot when it comes to audio and entertainment features, and the 2007-2014 Expedition did not disappoint.
The stock gear really wasn’t bad, but it's starting to age and when it comes to connectivity in particular, aftermarket gear can make a big difference.Depending on what you're starting with (there were several permutations and combinations), there will be some interesting bits to stereo replacement. Whether you're talking to a Crutchfield advisor or using our, we'll make sure you get the info you need for the gear you're buying.Replacing the receiver can mean losing features like XM satellite radio, navigation, SYNC, or even fader control on vehicles equipped with digital amplifiers. If this sounds confusing, don't worry. You can replace and even upgrade some of those features, and we'll give you a deep discount on the wiring harness adapter and dash kit you'll need for your installation.A variety of single-DIN (2' tall) or double-DIN (4' tall) receivers will fit in your Expedition's dash, and the project is well within the capability of most DIY-ers. Just be warned that a receiver with a fold-down face is not recommended for the Expedition. With step-by-step disassembly instructions and plenty of up-close, detailed photos, our exclusive ™ takes the guesswork out of removing the factory stereo and speakers.
It's free with your Crutchfield order, or you can purchase one separately for just $9.99.2015-2017 modelsBelieve it or not, we haven't yet had a chance to fully review the final version of the third-gen Expedition, so we can't say much about receiver replacement at this time. We'll update this space as soon as we can. The speaker locations and techniques should be the same, though. Removing your truck's radio is relatively easy, compared to many we've seen (Crutchfield Research Photo)Replacing your factory radioThe first thing to do with this or any other vehicle is set the parking brake and disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical short.
Safety matters, so make sure you get off to a good start.Once that's done, pry out the edges of the receiver/climate control trim panel to release the retaining clips. Pry out the lower console trim panel to release those clips, then pull out the entire trim panel. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and remove the assembly.
Remove the four 7mm screws securing the factory radio, then pull it out and remove it.Installing the new stereo essentially involves doing all of that stuff backwards, following the Crutchfield MasterSheet that's included free with your stereo or speaker purchase. The dash kit and wiring harness adapter will include instructions of their own.Be sure to test the receiver to make sure it's working before you start buttoning things up again.
If it isn't, and you’re not sure why, just give us a call. Every Crutchfield car audio purchase includes free tech support for the life of the gear.Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm driver Steering wheel audio controlsIt's relatively easy to retain the steering wheel audio controls when you install a new stereo in your Expedition. When you, our database will choose the adapter you need to make your factory steering wheel controls work with your new receiver. These big front doors deserve some serious speakers (Crutchfield Research Photo) Replacing your factory speakersThe Expedition has a set of component speakers in the front doors, full-range speakers in the rear doors, and, in some cases, a subwoofer in the cargo area. Removing the front door speakersThe front door speaker array consists of woofers and tweeters in each door. They're not hard to deal with once you remove the door panels, and there are plenty of great aftermarket replacements out there. A set of will be a great upgrade for your Expedition.
The stock woofers attach to the doors, while the tweeters are attached to the door panels (Crutchfield Research Photo)The door panel removal process begins with prying off the screw cover behind the door release and removing one 7mm screw. Pry off the door release trim to release the retaining clips and remove the trim, then pry open the screw cover inside the door pull cup and remove two exposed 7mm screws.Pry open the screw cover on the rear edge of the door panel and remove one Phillips screw, then remove two 7mm screws from the bottom edge of the door panel. Moving back up the door, pry out the sail panel.
Hold the sail panel out and lift the door panel to release the hooks from the door. With all that taken care of, you can disconnect the wiring harness and remove the panel.If that seems like a lot of prying, that's because it is.
A set of will make this job a lot easier and they're a lot nicer to those plastic panels than a big old screwdriver. Replacing the tweeters isn't hard, but you'll need a little bit of extra gear to do the job (Crutchfield Research Photo)TweetersThe 1.570' tweeters can be replaced by pretty much any component speaker system tweeter, but you'll need to use our (or hot glue or silicone) to secure the new tweeters in place. There's no wiring harness adapter for this location, so you'll need to connect the tweeters to the factory wiring.The grille is removed with the tweeter and creates a 1.595' hole in the door panel.
An aftermarket tweeter can be flush-mounted to the panel, as long as it clears the cutout.WoofersThe woofers can be replaced by 6'x8' or 5-1/4' aftermarket speakers. With the door panel out of the way, all you need to do is remove the four Torx T20 screws securing the old speaker and get it out of there. Use the speaker wiring adapter to connect the new speaker to your truck's speaker harness. Use the old screws to secure the new speaker to the door, and you're done.You'll need mounting brackets to mount smaller woofers, and they're included with your Crutchfield speaker purchase at a deep discount.Be sure to test the speakers to make sure they're working properly before you put everything back together. Also, check to make sure the wiring doesn't interfere with the windows or the locks.Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm driver, 1/4' hex driver, Phillips screwdriver.
The full-range speakers in the rear doors are very easy to work with (Crutchfield Research Photo) Removing the rear door speakersThe situation in the rear doors is very similar to what's going on up front, save for the fact that you're only dealing with a pair of full-range speakers. These can also be replaced by 6'x8' or 5-1/4' aftermarket speakers, and the work is basically the same as what you did on the front doors.
Complete, step-by-step disassembly instructions can be found in your.Don't forget to test the speakers and check the doors and locks before you finish up.Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm driver, Phillips screwdriver, 1/4' hex driver. Got a free afternoon? You'll need it for this job. (Crutchfield Research Photo) Removing the rear subwooferThe Expedition is pretty easy to work on for the most part, but when it comes to replacing the optional rear subwoofer in the right rear side panel, the job is a little tougher.
It's not that the individual tasks are all that difficult, it's that there are a whole bunch of them. If you're a DIY-er with basic skills, you can do this, but you might want to block off an afternoon. It's not a thing you can hurry through, so be patient, work carefully, and maybe ask a friend to help.
You'll find complete instructions in your Crutchfield MasterSheet, which will also be a big help.There are a few other things to know before you start.For one, the stock speaker only receives bass frequencies, so if you try to put a full-range speaker back here, it'll only produce bass frequencies. You're probably not going to do that, but if you're trying to squeeze some extra use out of a leftover speaker, that's what's going to happen. Also, replacing the low-impedance stock sub with a higher-impedance aftermarket speaker will result in lower volume levels. Exactly how big a subwoofer were you thinking about? (Crutchfield Research Photo)Bass in your ExpeditionAs you can probably guess, the Expedition offers acres of room for a subwoofer box. If you want to go big, you can, since you have a 51' W x 15' H x 24'/30' D space (measurements taken below side ledges) to work with.
Want to put three 12' subs back there? Okay, that could work.
Of course, if you still need the Expedition's vast cargo area for vast amounts of cargo, you can go with a smaller box or even a.Take a look at our full line of for inspiration. Boyo's VTC464RB wireless rear-view camera system is an ideal back-up solution for your SUVOther options for your ExpeditionHere are some other cool ideas for improving your Expedition. Rear-view cameras for better visibilityThe Expedition is an enormous vehicle, and maneuvering in a crowded parking lot can be a big challenge. If you want a better view of what's behind you, we offer from Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer, and more. Some are designed to work with same-brand receivers only, but others come with a composite video connector and will work with almost any video receiver. Add an amplifier to fill your truck with musicif you want real power, you need an aftermarket.
You'll find plenty of great spots to mount amplifiers in the Expedition (under the seats or behind interior panels, for example), but consider the size of the amp and remember that it will need air to operate efficiently. Car security systemsInstalling a security system in your Expedition isn't easy (security systems rarely are), but it's definitely a good idea. Our Crutchfield Advisors can help figure out what you need to get the job done, but we usually recommend taking your car and new gear to a professional installer.
Rear Drivers Side door panel Removal. Expedition.Access, Speakers, Window motor Etc.Check out My Amazon Auto Accessories Store! Lets make that Weekend job less Painful!Nathan is a participant in the Amazon Influencer Program. Your support is appreciated!🔻Nathan's DIY Tools And Parts:1. DEWALT Tools Set (192 Piece):2.
How To Remove Door Panel Silverado
Basic Mechanic Tool Set:3. Professional Socket Set:4. Ratcheting Wrench Set:5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter:6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter:7. Uniteco 1/2' Cordless Impact Wrench Kit, 18V Battery:8.
Elm327 usb cable. HD Nitrile Gloves:9. Fast Orange Smooth Lotion Hand Cleaner:10. Mechanic Shop Towels:11.
High 6000 Lumen LED Work Headlight.
How To Remove Rear Door Panel On 1998 Ford Expedition![]()
Remove a door panel How to Remove a door panelRemoving a door trim panel may seem daunting because all the fasteners are hidden. But if you know what to look for, you can remove all the fasteners and lift the entire door panel off in less than 15 minutes—without a factory diagram. Door Panel Removal TipsTo reduce factory labor costs, car makers rely on snap fasteners to secure the panel in place until more sturdy screw fasteners can be installed. The snap fasteners are known as “Christmas Tree” fasteners. The head locks into a keyhole slot on the door trim panel and the barbed “limb ends” are designed to push into a pre-punched hole in the metal door.
During installation, the assembler simply hooks the top of the door trim panel on the window ledge and presses the panel against the door frame. They smack the door panel with a rubber mallet to force the Christmas Tree fasteners into the holes.
As the fasteners enter the holes, their “limbs” expand and hold the panel.But car makers can’t rely on these snap fasteners alone. So once the trim panel is in place, they finish the job with screws. Because drivers use the arm rest to pull the door closed. Christmas Tree fasteners cannot take that kind of daily stress. With the door panel firmly attached, they install switch assemblies (power window, power door lock, power mirror, etc.), and the window crank (manual windows). Then they cover all the screws with snap-in “vanity caps.” Their only job is to hide the screws. Now that you know how door panels are assembled, you just need to reverse the process.
Step #1 Remove the window crank (manual windows)If you have manual windows, start by removing the window crank. Some window cranks are screwed in place. The screw is either in plain sight or hidden under a vanity cap in the center of the large circular part of the crank. If your vehicle doesn’t have a screw or hex head fastener, then it is held in place with a clip.
There’s a way to remove the retaining clip with just a rag. But it doesn’t always work.
The proper removal tool is cheap (less than $8 at any auto parts store) and will get you off the right start on this project.The removal tool works by expanding the ears on a clip in a slot on the window crank. Most DIY’ers get frustrated at this point because they don’t know which way to insert the tool. The factory always installs the open end of the clip so it faces the rotating knob. If this is the first time the crank is being removed, insert the tool between the hub of the crank handle and the protective plastic disk. The protective disk simply prevents the crank arm from wearing a groove into the door trim panel. If you try to insert the removal tool between the protective disk and the door panel, it will not engage the spring clip.
If you cannot disengage the clip, the window crank may have been removed by someone else and the clip may be installed backwards. In that case, insert the tool so it pushes the clip towards the rotating knob.Hold a rag on the ejection side of the window crank to catch the clip. Trust us, it will go flying across the room if you don’t cover the edge with a rag. Then push the tool towards the center hub. You will feel the clip pop off.
Then pull the window crank towards you. When you reassemble the crank handle, remember to install the clip so the open end faces the rotating knob. With the clip installed in the groove, simply press the crank assembly onto the splined shaft until the clip snaps into the shaft groove. Step #2 Find and remove the vanity caps and the hidden screwsThis step requires some detective work and a small pick. Look for any plastic pieces (round or oval) that don’t seem to serve any useful purpose. Start at the arm rest in the door pull area. There are usually screws there.
If you don’t see any, look for a vanity cap. Search the door latch area as well. Check along the latch side of the door trim panel. And don’t forget to check under reflectors. Here’s one under the door pull area.Don’t forget to check under reflectors and along the latch side of the door panel.If your door panel has carpet, feel for screws hidden along the bottom edge of the carpet. Step #3 Remove any part that will prevent you from moving the panel upLate model cars usually have a plastic trim cap to cover the screws to the side view mirror. In this case, our 2002 Oldsmobile Alero had a tweeter installed in the trim.
Uline s-16988 template. Some of these trim pieces are held in place with screws, but most just snap in place. Use the trim removal tool (next page) to pry the plastic trim off.
Disconnect the electrical connector to the speaker. Step #4 Remove retaining screws and trim pieces around door latch handlesAsian cars usually require you to remove the door latch handle before. Don’t forget to check under reflectors and along the latch side of the door panel.the door trim panel can be removed.
Look for a screw like the one shown in this illustration. Once you remove the screw, gently lift out the plastic latch mechanism. If it doesn’t move, DON’T force it. If probably has plastic hooks mounted on the back side. So slide the entire latch mechanism forward until the hooks disengage from the door frame. Then you can lift it out.Once you have it loose, you will have to disconnect the latch rod from the handle. You’ll see a plastic retaining clip.
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Rotate the clip off the rod and lift the rod up. Do NOT lose this retaining clip. You’ll need it for reassembly.Some Asian vehicles look like the latch in the illustration but do not have a screw.
The trim bezel on these latches hide the release mechanism. Use a small flat blade screw driver to gently pry the bezel up from the to edge of the latch. Then pry down on the bottom edge of the bezel.
Once it’s off, you’ll see either hidden screws or spring release latches. Remove those and the door handle will come out. Disconnect electrical connector Step #5 Pop the trim panel fastenersStart at the bottom of the trim panel and insert the door panel removal tool. Pry against the metal portion of the door until you feel the fasteners pop.
Move the tool towards the hinge area and repeat while holding the loose portion away from the door. Once the bottom fasteners are released, you can usually pull the door panel out and the remaining fasteners will pop out.
If they don’t, you’ll need a long handled tool like the one shown below. Step #6 Slide the door panel up and off the window sillRemember, during assembly the factory guys put the top of the door panel on first. So it’s the last to come off. So lift the trim panel out and up. As soon as the door panel is lose, you’ll notice that it’s still connected with wires to the door switches. Do NOT pull on the trim panel or you can rip those wires right out of their sockets.
Use a small flat blade screw driver to depress the release latches on each of the door switches and remove the connectors. Remove screw from door latchIf your door trim panel has courtesy lights, the bulb sockets must be removed. They usually twist 1/4 turn and pull out. Once the door panel is completely off, move to step #7 Step #7 Account for all Christmas Tree Fasteners and re-install where necessaryIt’s not uncommon for Christmas Tree fasteners to slide out of their keyhole slots in the trim panel. So locate any fasteners that are still in the door frame and remove them with the slotted removal tool. Then reinstall them in the keyhole slots in the trim panel.
Straighten any bent fasteners now or buy new ones at the auto parts store.© 2012 Rick MuscoplatSave. Eautorepair.netAllDataDIY.comGet the BEST auto repair information and are the two best shop manuals—period! Unlike the cheaper Haynes and Chilton manuals that cover multiple year models, leaving the exact information you need to fix your car, these professional manuals cover your exact year, make, model. A subscription includes up-to-date the manufacturer’s technical service bulletins, step-by-step removal and installation instructions, illustrations, wiring diagrams, component locations, torque specifications, fluid types and capacities and maintenance schedules. Plus, they contain full trouble code descriptions and troubleshooting instructions.
Pricing: -Eautorepair.net- 1 month subscription $19.95 per vehicle 1-year subscription $29.95 per vehicle 4-year subscription $44.95 per vehicle -Alldatadiy.com- 1-year $29.95 subscription: additional vehicles $19/95 each 5-year $49.95 subscription: additional vehicles $34.95 each Which one should YOU choose? If you’re tracking down a wiring issue, is the better choice. Eautorepair.net redraws factory wiring diagrams in color and includes the component, splice and ground locations right in their diagrams. That saves a lot of time because you don’t have to refer back to the component locator or circuit locations. Alldatadiy.com, on the other hand, uses the factory diagrams.
So you have to refer to the factory legends to learn the identification symbols and then refer back to circuit diagrams to find the splice and ground locations. However, also includes disassembly instructions for interior trim panels and exterior items like headlights and tail lights. If you need to dig into your doors, dash or console, Alldatadiy.com is the better choice because Eautorepair.net doesn’t any interior or exterior trim or body part removal.
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